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Loan Programs Compared

FHA vs. Conventional: Which One Fits You?

The two most common loan programs, priced side by side on the same house — and the credit score that decides between them.

Alliance Lending Services 8 min read Published

FHA and conventional will both lend on the same house, and the cheaper one is not always the one you expect. Alliance Lending Services walks through what separates them, what mortgage insurance costs on each, and how a credit score can flip the answer.

Inside
what actually separates the two programs · MIP and PMI, and which one ends · the same $350,000 house financed two ways · the credit score that flips the answer · when starting FHA and refinancing later works
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Two loan programs will lend on the same house, to the same buyer, on the same afternoon — and hand back two different payments.

FHA and conventional are the two answers most Utah buyers are choosing between, and the choice usually gets made on a rumour: that FHA is what you take when you cannot qualify for anything else, or that conventional always costs less. Neither one holds up.

What actually decides it is a short list — your credit score, how much cash you have, and how long you expect to keep the loan. Here is what separates the two programs, and a worked example on a $350,000 house that shows the difference in dollars.

What Actually Separates FHA and Conventional

An FHA loan is an ordinary mortgage from an ordinary lender, with government insurance behind it. The Federal Housing Administration does not lend you the money; it promises the lender it will cover the loss if you stop paying. That promise is what lets a lender accept a smaller down payment and a lower credit score than it otherwise would — and you are the one who pays for it.

A conventional loan has no government insurance behind it. Most of them are written to the standards Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac will buy — which is where the word "conforming" comes from — and where a down payment is small, the protection comes from a private insurer instead of a federal one.

Same lender, same underwriter, same closing table. What changes is whose rulebook the loan has to satisfy, and who is being protected against your default.

Two open loan-guideline binders side by side on a wooden desk, one heavily tabbed with sticky notes
Two rulebooks, one house. Which one your loan is written to changes what it costs.

Where Each One Starts: Credit and Cash

The entry requirements are the first place the two programs part company.

  • FHA: 3.5% down for qualified borrowers with a credit score of 580 or above

  • Conventional: As little as 3% down on some programs, with lenders generally looking for 620 or better

  • VA: Eligible veterans and service members can often buy with no down payment and no monthly mortgage insurance at all

  • USDA: Qualified buyers and eligible rural properties may also purchase with nothing down

If either of the last two fits you, the FHA-versus-conventional question may not be the one you need to answer at all. It is worth five minutes with a loan officer before you spend a week comparing the other two.

On the $350,000 house this article prices, the cash at the front looks like this:

Conventional 3%
$10,500
FHA 3.5%
$12,250
Conventional 5%
$17,500
Conventional 20%
$70,000

Try these down payments on your own price

Most buyers stop at that row and pick the smallest number. It is the least interesting part of the comparison: a down payment is paid once, and the thing that really separates these two programs shows up every month for years.

Mortgage Insurance Is the Real Fork in the Road

Both programs charge you for putting down less than 20%, and they charge in different shapes. That difference is the single biggest reason one loan ends up costing more than the other.

FHA calls it MIP — a mortgage insurance premium, and there are two of them. Bankrate puts the upfront premium at 1.75% of the loan, normally financed into the balance rather than paid at closing, and the annual premium at 0.55% for most 30-year loans, collected in twelve pieces inside the monthly payment. Neither figure moves with your credit score. Everybody pays the same.

Conventional calls it PMI — private mortgage insurance. There is no upfront charge, and the rate is not a schedule: it is priced off your credit score and your down payment, which means the same loan on the same house costs two borrowers two very different amounts.

The difference that matters most is not the rate. It is whether the charge ever stops.

PMI comes off. Under federal law a servicer must cancel it automatically once the balance reaches 78% of the home's original value, and you can request removal at 80% — on a standard payment schedule, somewhere around year eight to eleven, and sooner if you pay extra or values rise.

FHA's MIP largely does not. The Mortgage Reports notes that when the down payment is under 10%, the annual premium stays for the life of the loan — reaching 20% equity changes nothing, and the only way out is a refinance into a different loan.

A printed mortgage statement with the mortgage insurance line highlighted in yellow
One line on the statement. On one program it has an end date; on the other it usually does not.

One House, Two Paths: A $350,000 Example

Here is what all of that is worth in dollars. Same house, same day, one buyer with a credit score in the low 640s — the tier where this comparison is genuinely close.

A $350,000 purchase, financed two ways:

FHA — 3.5% down, 580+ credit score

Down payment
$12,250
Base loan
$337,750
Upfront insurance
$5,911
Total financed
$343,661
Monthly insurance
$157.50
Average 30-year rate
6.09%
Insurance ends
Only on refinance

Conventional — 5% down, ~640 credit score

Down payment
$17,500
Base loan
$332,500
Upfront insurance
None
Total financed
$332,500
Monthly insurance
$319
Average 30-year rate
6.58%
Insurance ends
At 78% of value

Read across. At this credit tier the FHA loan wins on the rate and on the insurance line — the assumption that FHA is always the expensive option does not survive contact with the arithmetic. What it costs is permanence: that $157.50 stays for as long as the loan does, while the $319 has a date on it.

The upfront premium is where the FHA column looks worst and behaves best. It adds $5,911 to the balance — 1.75% of the base loan, per Bankrate — so the FHA buyer borrows $343,661 against the conventional buyer's $332,500. They also brought $5,250 less to closing, which for a lot of first-time buyers is the difference between buying this year and buying next year.

The PMI line is doing the real work in that box. At a 640 score with 5% down, PMI commonly runs about 1.15% a year according to The Truth About Mortgage — roughly $3,824 on this loan, or $319 a month. Against FHA's flat 0.55%, the conventional buyer is paying more than twice as much for the same protection.

Credit score does not nudge this comparison. It flips it.

Take the same $332,500 conventional loan and hand it to a borrower at 760 or above. ConsumerAffairs reports PMI at that tier can run as little as 0.46% a year — about $127 a month. That is now below FHA's $157.50, and unlike FHA's it has an expiry date. Nothing about the house changed. The credit score changed, and with it the answer.

One caution on the two rate averages in the box: 6.09% for a 30-year FHA loan (FHAloans.com) and 6.58% for a 30-year conventional loan (Fortune) are national daily averages as of August 2026, not quotes. They move every week, and the gap between them moves with them. The program mechanics above the rates do not.

A whiteboard showing two columns of handwritten loan figures with the insurance line circled in each

The Differences That Never Show Up on a Payment

Four more things separate these programs, and none of them appear on a payment comparison. They decide plenty of real transactions anyway.

  • The appraisal is stricter on FHA. An FHA appraisal includes a property-condition review, so peeling paint, a failing roof or a missing handrail can hold up a loan a conventional appraisal would have waved through. On an older home whose seller will not do repairs, that alone can decide the program.

  • FHA is more forgiving on debt. FHA guidelines generally allow more student-loan, car and credit-card debt against the same income than conventional ones do. It is often the reason an approval exists at all.

  • Seller help is capped differently. Both programs cap what a seller may contribute toward your closing costs, and FHA has historically allowed more at a small down payment — so the program changes what you are allowed to ask for.

  • An FHA loan can be assumed. A qualified buyer can take over an existing FHA loan at its original rate — worth very little when rates are falling and quite a lot when they are not. A conventional loan generally cannot be handed on that way.

None of these is a dealbreaker on its own, and all of them are worth knowing before you write an offer — two of them are decided by the house rather than by you.

"Start With FHA, Refinance Later" — What That Actually Means

You will hear this offered as a rule of thumb. It is better understood as arithmetic — and the arithmetic is already in the box above.

Take the buyer in the example. They chose FHA at 640 because at that tier FHA was cheaper and easier to qualify for. Two years of on-time payments and a paid-off card later, they are at 770. The same balance now prices PMI near 0.46% rather than 1.15% — about $127 a month, roughly $30 below the MIP they are paying, with an end date attached.

That is the whole mechanism. It is not that conventional is the "real" loan and FHA is training wheels; it is that FHA prices everybody the same and conventional prices you. Improving your credit does nothing to an FHA payment and quite a lot to a conventional one.

The catch is that two things have to move, not one: credit has to climb far enough to change the insurance tier, and rates have to be somewhere you would want to land. A refinance that fixes the insurance and raises the rate has not helped. An Alliance loan officer can run both halves against your real balance before you assume either.

FHA is not a lesser loan. For a great many buyers it is the door in — and the door in is worth more than the label on it.

So Which One Fits You?

There is no program that wins on paper. There is a program that wins on your paper. The rough shape of it:

  • Credit in the high 500s or low 600s — FHA is usually the only door open, and frequently the cheaper one as well.
  • Credit of about 720 or better — conventional PMI usually undercuts FHA's premium, and it ends.
  • Very little cash and most of it going into the house — FHA's 3.5% and its financed upfront premium keep more in your account.
  • 20% down — the question disappears. Neither program charges mortgage insurance there.
  • A house that needs work — the appraisal standard may make the choice for you.
  • A veteran, or a rural property — check VA and USDA before you compare these two at all.

The comparison that matters is not the one in this article. It is the one with your credit score, your cash, your house and today's rates in it — and it takes a loan officer about twenty minutes to produce.

Alliance Lending Services writes conventional, FHA, VA, USDA and other mortgage programs, which is what makes this a comparison rather than a pitch — there is no program here we need you to choose.

This content is for educational purposes only and is not a commitment to lend. All figures shown are examples: mortgage insurance rates, interest rates and program guidelines vary by borrower, property and lender and change over time, and the rates quoted here are published averages as of the date above rather than an offer. Every loan is subject to credit approval and program guidelines. Alliance Lending Services, NMLS #304510. Equal Housing Opportunity.

See both programs priced on your actual numbers.

Tell a loan officer your credit range, what you have saved and the price you are looking at. You will get FHA and conventional side by side — the cash to close, the monthly payment, the insurance and when it ends — with no application and no credit pull to ask.